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It was a showcase of his greatest hits. For Spring 2023, Walter Van Beirendonck showcased the sophisticated tailoring, crazy prints and sportswear elements for which he is widely known at the Théâtre de la Madeleine.

There were two movements. First, the dark stage opened in a black, ghostly mass. Piece by piece, the disguises are lifted to reveal Van Beirendonck’s stylish models.

In the second part, there is a riot of color. This is the sportier part, but through the lens of Van Beirendonck. For example, the tracksuits were adorned with gold undershirts in circular patterns decorated with swirling shades of green, pink, green and red.

The designer took into account today’s chaotic world.

“I wanted to tell a story and make it quite dramatic,” he says. All his fears and hopes poured in, along with plenty of beauty, fun and references to Icarus. (Think gold, sun and wings.)

“In the end, it’s a myth about darkness as much as it is about hope,” Van Berendonck says.


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